Blizzard and sun, peace and joy at Portland Island, BC.

Just back from a wonderful four day trip. Since we had time, we took the chance to pop up into Canada and return to one of our old favorites just below Salt Spring, and that is Portland Island.

Owen at Arbutus Point, north side

The voyage to Portland on Monday was calm and easy. Gorgeous country rolling by and not a wisp of wind. There are two anchorages on Portland, like Jones. One south, and one north. The forecast was for stormy weather with SE winds, so we headed to the north cove called Royal Cove. For those that don't know, this island was given to Princes Margaret back during her visit to the province in the 1950's, and she gave it back in the 1960's to become a park. It is the largest island park in the Gulf Islands National Park system. A true gem.

So we tucked into Royal Cove, which is only open to the NE. You stern tie and make sure you have your bow pointed NE so the ferry waves cause you less trouble. After doing this, we were ashore for some exploration.

That night, a storm came up that blew strongly from the NE. Not the SE! We started getting 2-3 foot waves into he cove, and I was once again grateful for my Mantus Anchor and anchoring skills. We didn't budge, though our bow was doing the hobby horse all through the dark hours of the morning. It was blowing 25 or so. In the morning, I saw that the barometer had plummeted from 1019 to 1000.3 in just 6 hours. No wonder the wind was strong. We saw that it was also snowing, and during the downpours the snow was so thick it was a blizzard!

View from anchorage the day we left

We stayed snug on Aeolus for the long morning, while the blizzard continued and the wind howled. We have enough experience that things like this do not trouble us too much, but we were the only boat we saw the entire four days!

Around noon of this day I determined to get off the boat and so I bundled up and went out. The boys were reluctant. It was probably 35 degrees and raining/snowing. The biggest bummer was that our dinghy had filled a good half way with water, which means it had rained a good inch or more. Bailing the freezing water out of the dinghy is no fun, but as we say in our family "Arrrgggghhh" in Viking fashion. Once ashore I loved my walk around the winter wonderland of Portland.

Princes Beach on south side

Portland has no deer, which defies understanding, and so the ferns and moss and salal is ungrazed and especially verdant. Incredible really. You feel as though you are in an ancient forest, even though most of the island is second growth trees.

Departing Portland, the peaks all covered in snow!

Anyway, the wind died down as the afternoon wore on and Elliott and I went out again for a final foray before dark at 5pm. Pitch dark at 5pm.

We had a usual evening of playing cards, eating good food, and reading books. Owen and I finished reading Stephen King's "It" and started into the Caine Mutiny. Elliott was reading the Life and Times of Frederick Douglass and really enjoying it.

At 3am, I was awoke by wind once again tearing through the rigging. From the NE. I laid there until dawn listening for all sounds and being the attentive captain.

Right before dawn, it subsided, and we were able to get underway in only a 10 knot breeze, and in full clear sunshine. It was heaven. The tops of all the islands were covered in snow, and the distant Cascades were magnificent. The rest of our journey home was done at 6-7 knots with a helpful ebb and only mild seas behind us. It was among the prettier passages we have done through there, among hundreds. It was so clear, and bright, and crisp. Spieden is all green, and the ravenous non-native sheep are happily grazing any living thing. Everything seemed laid out in perfect order for maximum beauty.

It was an odd and adventurous trip this time, and once again, a wonderful way to reset from the stress and pettiness and importance of local and national events. We go to where the wild things are, and rest in the peace of their presence.