A trip amongst boat maintenance weekend

 I went out alone this weekend and managed to fit in a trip to Stuart Island amongst an enormous amount of boat cleaning and maintenance. Winter is always a magical time to travel in the Salish Sea, and while I am a diurnal fellow and will always prefer summer, the winter has charms that are unique to the season. Chief among these may be the fact that no one else goes out! 

I got to the islands on Friday and left for Stuart on Saturday morning. It was a calm and lovely morning, with no wind and mild conditions. Motoring up to Spieden Channel and through it to Reid Harbor is always a treat. There were no sea lions this time, but the usual bald eagles and non-native goats on Spieden. If I was rich, I would buy that island just to sterilize all the non-native ungulates so the poor flowers and trees have a chance to grow and regenerate. The current owner does not seem to have any ecological interests. There are only old trees growing on Spieden now, especially on the sunny south side. It won't be long before these die and nothing else can grow in their stead. 

Anyway, arrived at Reid and was the only boat in the harbor. I dropped the hook and immediately began some boat cleaning. The top sides were in bad need of scrubbing. This being done, I went to land and cleaned the growth off the dinghy. Yikes, it had mature forests of mussels and barnacles! I walked the eastern side of the State Park isthmus to stretch my legs, and to my delight came across a male Hooded Merganser in Prevost Harbor. So magnificent in his breeding plumage. Then I heard his mating call. Of all the life on Earth, the Hooded Merganser is among the most beautiful things. 

It was a quiet night with only moderate winds in Reid. The Cubic Mini gets so hot and toasty it's a game changer. I finished reading Demon Copperhead by Barbara Kingsolver, and that's a dark tale of Americana. 

On Sunday morning I did a quick four mile walk on Stuart and then departed for Friday Harbor to resume my boat maintenance in earnest. To my surprise when I exited Reid, the Around the County race was headed noth out of the Roche area and right in front of me. Had to be more than 100 boats. They must have changed the course this year from last to avoid the forecasted 30+ knot winds later on Sunday in Haro Strait. That's such a cool race. I don't race or know any racers, but it would be fun to do it sometime. 

The 2 hours back to the slip went happily by, and I spent the rest of Sunday tackling a very long list of projects. So purposeful and satisfying. Because we went to Europe this summer instead of Desolation Sound, the boat did not get the normal use and maintenance that trip brings about. 

What a 3 day voyage!

 We had dear friends join us on Aeolus for the past 3 days and they were about the most perfect days one can have. We picked them up at SeaTac and went straight to Anacortes, making the ferry after parking and walking on by the skin of our teeth. We so often make ferries by the skin or our teeth that I think our teeth must have lots of extra skin! 

Friday night was quiet and we were away first thing Saturday. These friends are global travelers, Peace Corps veterans, and just delightful humans. He's a physician, and she works on climate change as a big brain for the State of California. On Saturday we went to Prevost to set up the rest of our trip. 

I'll pause here and say that we truly enjoy having guests aboard Aeolus as it is always wonderful seeing things through their eyes. We feel blessed to be able to expose people to the joys and adventures of sailboat travel and the wondrous beauty of the Salish Sea. 

So the voyage to Prevost was a highlight. Takes 3 hours from Friday Harbor in benign conditions, which we had. Once there we dropped anchor not by the State Park as most do, but by the public dock and Ericsen farm, and went to shore and hiked out to the Lighhouse. The lightouse was open for tours and we even got a tour of the big keepers house. A rare treat. From there we hiked up to a high point we love, and all together had about a 5 mile day with lots of elevation change. We are not young anymore, but tough as nails and know something about grit. 

Back at the public dock, the three of them wanted to swim back to Aeolus which was a good 120 meters out to sea. I rowed the dinghy, being less a fan of neck seizing water. Well done by them! 

A night of cards, and gorgeous light and conversation. These friends have been in our lives since college, more or less. There is so much to say, and so much that doesn't need said. Beyond this, they are both so bright and yet don't take themselves or life too seriously. It's a gift to be lighthearted in this life. Especially, if I may say, for men. We laughed, and laughed, and laughed, and laughed. Just silliness. All of us have advanced degrees but instead of being lodged in a place of stodgy intellectualism we can act like 13 year old misfits one moment and have deep conversations about global affairs the next. No pretense. No need to impress. 

On Sunday we cleared customs at Bedwell Harbor and were off to Portland Island and Princess Bay. This time our anchor caught on the first try, as opposed to previous trips that saw us grab a barrel of kelp. It's been hot and dry for days here and the whole trip was like this. We swam first, paddle boarded, and enjoyed the ease of leisure on the life aquatic. After some food we crossed the island to Arbutus Point and came back on the East side. Portland is so botanically and culturally interesting. Thank you BC Parks and Gulf Islands National Park system for all you provide to mariners in British Columbia. 

We dropped them off in Sidney this morning as they continued their journey on Vancouver Island to see other friends, and we did the 3 hour trip across Haro Strait and back through Spieden Channel to Friday Harbor. It got a bit choppy in the Straits, with maybe 15 knots of wind kicking up some seas as it went against some light current. Aeolus smiles. 

A 3 day tour of the near waters and what a joyous time. I changed the thermostat in Aeolus a while back to my 195 model to run her hotter and burn off anything I could burn off. But running her at 195-200 makes me nervous that any problem will spike the temperatures to unsafe levels. So I swapped back to the 180 thermostat in Princess Bay, using a gasket I made myself from good material I had purchased. Did the trick and back to steady 180. 

I will never cease being grateful for Aeolus. What a day today, 4 hour boat journey through some of the most scenic places in the lower Salish Sea, and then a 3 hour drive home. Yes, we will sleep well tonight. 

A perfect 4th and Gulf Island getaway!

 It's not like us to hang around civilization over the long 4th of July weekend, instead celebrating the freedom of our founding principles by getting into remote places. This year, we've been hosting a Rotary Youth Exchange student, and they naturally wanted to experience an American 4th of July. So we went up to Friday Harbor on the evening of the 3rd and hung out all day in town for the 4th and the fireworks that night. 

What a perfect day it turned out to be. Besides the weather, which was warm with a cool breeze, the town really does a nice job of being festive. The parade began around 10:30am and was thoroughly delightful. The exact sort of small town parade you would hope for, including golden retrievers, horses, the local fire department, and all sorts of quirky random stuff. My personal favorite was seeing a little girl on a miniature horse. The crowd favorite was probably the giant pirate ship that actually belched flames from the mouth of a dragon on the bow and dropped bubbles out of the stern to simulate ship wake. Great turnout, lots of patriotism with none of the nasty associations. The librarians got huge applause! 

We left Friday morning for British Columbia and had to stop first at Bedwell due to our student being with us. Conditions were benign and sunny all day. No wind. Forecast was for strong winds that night from the NW so we left Bedwell and did the beautiful journey around the corner to Winter Cove and Saturna Island. The headwall of Saturna that faces West is among the most grand sites in all the Salish Sea. Winter Cove was only lightly occupied and we had no trouble dropping the hook in our favorite spot off the park dock. We were quickly ashore and out to the Boat Passage point to admire the spectacular scenery of it all. That little park has a lovely trail system that loops about .5 miles and is well worth walking twice. 

At Boat Passage looking back south

We jumped off Aeolus and swam later that afternoon, but Amy puts us to shame by swimming back to the boat from the dock about 100 meters. Winter Cove is shallow and a bit warmer than the open water. 

That night the wind did come up and blow about 20-25knots. We waited for the wind to diminish as was forecasted and for the ebb to slacken before heading through Georgeson Passage. It's a tight and beautiful pass that really does have pumping current. Not far off from Dodd Narrows in beauty and power of water. The tide and current book says it is 50% of Active Pass but that just doesn't make sense when you see it pumping at 6 knots toward the end of the cycle. So we didn't leave Winter Cove to go to Tumbo until 10 or so. 

Oh Tumbo! How we love you so! It's two hours around from Winter Cove to Tumbo, and no, we have not yet been brave enough to go through Boat Passage though I see sailboat do it regularly and it's plenty deep. At Tumbo we beat the crowds and grabbed a ball near Cabbage. Right after we arrive every ball got taken! 

Exploring Tumbo is like walking through a dream. Every step invites pause and reflection. We walked to and along the marsh to the far southern side, and were greeted again by the majesty of that location. The views toward Mt. Baker and Sucia and Orcas and Lummi are just beyond words. The feeling of airiness and grandeur take your breath away. We also went out to the far southern tip of Tumbo, which no trail accesses, as you just walk the shoreline. There was a bald eagle nest there, and the parents were displeased with our arrival. Loads of harbor seals as well at the point. 

Meandering back to the dinghy and to Aeolus for some rest, we later went to Cabbage for a reunion with that lovely place. We circumnavigated, as must be done, and Amy swam back to Aeolus again. There are strong currents in Reef Harbor but she fought hard and did it. So proud of her courage and strength. 

The sunset from Tumbo, if it is clear, is the best in the San Juans/Gulf Islands area. It sets over the ocean, as the land is too distant and the curvature of the Earth hides it. 

Our voyage back today began at 5:45 am and was the fastest ever. Seas were flat. No wind. A strong ebb helped the whole way and we did 7-8 knots for the 2.5 hours it took to do 20 miles. We go down and through President's Channel. Gorgeous. Getting up with the dawn is not at all something I do regularly, but while on Aeolus, it almost always brings great things. 

It was a perfect 4 day weekend in perfect conditions and we had the best time aboard our dear Gulf 32, who continues to be our space ship to paradies. 

A cloudy jaunt to lovely Portland and a dead engine

 We sure made our plans in the sand at low tide this Memorial Day weekend! We thought we'd head to Tumbo, but our time of departure and wind against kept us from making good enough time to make Bedwell Harbor in time for Customs, that closes there at 5pm. Our chartplotter had us getting there at 5:45. So we turned off and spent a lovely late afternoon at Prevost Harbor. Few anchor near the County Dock, but the holding is great, there are no real hazards, and you are nearer to the lighthouse. We stayed there and hiked out to the lighthouse, enjoying every step. It really is a gorgeous place to walk. 

Breezy trip north

At Prevost headed to County Dock

On Sunday we went up to Bedwell and cleared Canadian Customs. Though Amy and I have Nexus cards, we traveled with our exchange student who does not. Thus the station visit. The officers arrived soon after we called in and they were so professional and nice. Amy bought them coffee after we had cleared, thanking them for their service. She manages the enforcement officers of DFW so knows the risks they face daily and the important work they do. 

We then decided to not fight the ebb out to Tumbo. To get to Tumbo a number of things have to be true. The wind cannot be strong NW while there, cannot turn to strong SE to get back, and you can't fight the ebb to get there, or a strong flood to get back. It usually works out, but not always. 

So on this trip with the recent full moon and a 10 foot tidal change in 6 hours, we went West instead from Bedwell and went to Portland. Lovely Portland. Princess Bay only had one other boat. When we got there we dropped in only 8 feet of water near the lowest tide. We quickly left to circumnavigate the island. I found on my GPS watch it was 5.2 miles all the way around, with a few extra steps on the beaches. They do a good job clearing the trails of logs, but it's rugged in places and a pretty good workout. 

Princess Bay-Always hard to set anchor due to thick algae growth

Tide pooling at very low tide

The night was calm. Monday dawned still cloudy. It was cloudy and cool all weekend, never getting above 55 or so. Our trip back to Friday Harbor was going great, going down along the West side of Moresby and Stuart, to Spieden channel. About the time we hit Sentinel Island an unexpected thing happened. The motor died. WTF! I maintain my diesel with absolute devotion. But she died. I swapped over to my backup fuel filter, since that is always the cause, but she wouldn't stay running. So I called Pan Pan, given the lack of wind and nearby rocky shores and strong current. We were offered help by a friendly power boat and soon the Customs and Border folks came by. They stood by while I arranged a tow from Boat US. While waiting for the tow boat to come, I was able to get the motor running again and the Customs boat was so kind to stay near us in case the motor died again. When the tow boat arrived we bid them farewell and were followed by the tow boat. Aeolus has never been towed, and this was only the second time I've called for one. In both instances, I was able to get her running again with either a fixed fuel filter, described in a post here, or by swapping to my backup filter this time. We made it all the way home no problem. I'll go back soon to troubleshoot. My tank is clean, and the filter was changed on the Racor 500 not long ago. Something is going on and I will find it out! 

Jones by any other name is Home

 A sunny forecast and no excuses needed to scurry up to Aeolus and make our escape. Got an early boat Saturday and made it to Jones against a strong ebb in San Juan Channel and light NW breezes. Once in the south cove (a rarity because winds of any size are usually south around there, except for Fraser River winds in winter) we grabbed a ball and the joy began. 

We circumnavigated the island and walking seemed too fast. It was so perfect. It felt like we were on ecstasy, and it was only nature induced. Every single thing so perfect. The fresh blades of green grass, the sprouts on the salal. Every rock. I mean it, it was painful to move as fast as walking. 

It's 4 miles or so around the whole island. Fascinating to those who are science minded as we are that the habitats change so dramatically based on the sun exposure. There are native cactus on the West side! 

Rowing the dinghy is such great exercise and zen. Fading light. Shadows and depths in the water. 

Lazy morning hike around again, sitting in the sun, contemplating questions that have no reply. 

Left Jones and caught the NW winds and were able to sail all the way back to the entrance to FH. Even got to wing on wing for a while. Only did 2.5 to 3.5 knots, and some of that was just the ebb current, but we were moving in the direction we needed to go nevertheless. 

Another perfect weekend aboard Aeolus. 

Winter quiet at Stuart Island

 Took the long weekend and enjoyed a lovely quiet weekend in Reid Harbor with our exchange student. Had the place to ourselves, as is typical in winter. The journey along Spieden never disappoints and was once again bursting with marine and avian life. Bald eagles and sea lions abound. Someday, someone will own Spieden island that will allow at least the sterilization of all those horrible non-native sheep and deer that denude the island and prevent any new growth of the oaks. In the meantime, they die and feed the vultures and eagles. 

On Stuart we went out to the lighthouse and up onto our favorite hilltop. Eagles, mouflon sheep (which again should be removed, sterilized) and happy pacific tree frogs. 

Calm conditions. Grey and drizzle. Another young person now in awe of the beauty of the islands. 

On the way

One of my favorite places on the planet

Veteran's Day get away

 Taking the opportunity for a three day weekend to board Aeolus and escape to wilderness was just what we needed. We went up Friday morning and knew the forecast was for gale force winds sometime Friday evening. This was perhaps the fastest turn around we had ever had from arriving at Aeolus in Friday Harbor and leaving the slip. It must have been 10 minutes or so, releasing emptying the dinghy of rainwater and moving it to the stern, getting the chartplotter out and ready to go, turning off the fans and boat heater and removing the AC shore power chord, getting the food and stuff put away enough to be voyaging, and letting loose the lines to syphilization. 

Oh blessed be. 

Our journey north to Stuart was aided by the growing SE winds. We raised the genoa and motor sailed at 7+ knots all the way up to Spieden. Spieden channel was as gorgeous and rich with wildlife as always. More on that later. 

Upon arrival we dropped anchor and did not want to be on the dock with high winds forecasted. Banging against a dock is no fun at all. We went to shore in a freshening breeze and walked the State Parks loop on the peninsula. We got back to Aeolus around dusk and settled in for the night. The Cubic Mini was soon ablaze and what a delight that wood stove is for our winter trips. 

During the night the wind indeed came up and was as strong as any we've experienced in Reid Harbor. It is a hurricane hole for sure, but the steep ridges on each side can create it's own small version of williwaws. The wind twists and gusts and shifts and roars. We tossed around pretty well but there is not enough fetch for any real trouble. I wish I had put out our anchor riding sail to dampen the motion. 

On Saturday morning all was calm. We did the Stuart Island Grand Tour, to the lighthouse and another favorite spot. We had mostly sunny skies and it was a beautiful day. At the lighthouse the first of the around the County boats were starting to approach. Big 60 foot plus beasts with 10 crew as rail meat and just flying along. They were tacking right at the point, and we had court side seats! 

At our other location we had a birds eye view of the race, now the slower boats of more modest sizes. I counted over 40 boats along the Stuart shoreline heading toward Roche Harbor and the end of the first day race. There is no more beautiful site in all of Washington State or the PNW than that from this spot. 

Another quiet evening with a 78 degree cozy warm boat due to our Cubic Mini. 

On Sunday we headed back and Spieden Channel was in fine form. The deer and goats were on Stuart, eating the green grass of winter. The sea lions were in the water and more than 20 were on the point. There were harbor seals, and porpoises. There were Harlequin Ducks. It's the most fecund and biologically rich marine area in the Salish Sea, and we go all over. The joy and peace and resonance of these wildlife encounters up there fill us with feelings of completion. 

A small fraction of those in my view

Those are sea lions

Only a few days and a few hours north of Friday Harbor, and yet a time warp aboard our Space Ship. The Good Ship Aeolus.