We all know there is nothing like having something taken away to help you appreciate what you've lost. We certainly knew that British Columbia was our paradise, and yet when COVID shut the door it was deeply painful (no exaggeration) to be denied access. These two long years have gone by in a whirlwind of other challenges, fears and losses, made only worse by not being able to escape into the wilderness up north that so perfectly nourishes our souls.
All the waiting came to end over Memorial Day weekend. Amy and I did as we've done so very many times before, boarding the ferry to Friday Harbor, boarding Aeolus on Friday night, and then letting loose the lines on Saturday morning.
One change right now is that the Nexus card system is paused on the Canadian side. What this means is that you can't simply call in. You have to physically go to a Customs place, in our case Bedwell, and call from there. It's a bit silly as you don't have to wait around to see if a Customs agent shows up. You get your clearance number and go.
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| Looking north to Pender Islands and Canada |
Winds were forecasted to be 15-25 from the NW, which can blow right into Reef Harbor, but we wanted to be there so badly we took the chance. Our Mantus anchor and ground tackle are as good as it gets. On Saturday we get there, after a marvelous trip east through Boundary Pass along the BC shore side. Near East Point on Saturna, two humpback whales appear! This is why you go, folks.
On Tumbo and Cabbage, we felt elation. I could barely walk it was so beautiful and nourishing. Those islands...have something primal and ancient about them, besides not being developed.
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| Cabbage Island |
A bit of a bouncy night, with swell rolling in to the anchorage, but nothing too bad. We certainly had no fear of dragging anchor, and were in no danger. The captain in me stays wakeful in such conditions, but for no good reason. The sunset that evening was as perfect as they always are on Tumbo. The sun sets right into the ocean over the Straits of Georgia.
Sunday dawned and we were off to Tumbo. Walked all around. Walked here and there. Basked in the glory of the wetland. Sat with a whole group of over 8 bald eagles at the south beach. Hung out with over 30 harbor seals hauled out at the point. Meandered among the birds. It was everything we loved and needed. We appreciated nothing that was not there, and the nothing that is.
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| South Tumbo, watching eagles |
Yet with more wind forecast, and a hunger to see more favorite places, we left Tumbo and went through Georgeson Passage against max flood to Winter Cove. In Georgeson, we slowed to 1 knot at times, but were able to make progress by playing eddies and having a strong motor and three blade prop. That passage is beautiful, and much more like passages up north than anything down in the San Juans.
Winter Cove is a hurricane hole, and we enjoyed the walk out to the point at Boat Passage and the quiet afternoon reading in the cockpit. A lovely place.
Monday we were away first thing under a heavy sky and rain. Damn currents are always against you no matter what in this area. We fought the ebb even heading south until we got all the way down to Jones Island. Going along Flat Top and by Waldron is always a treat.
Boundary Pass is such a vibrant zone for wildlife too. Always porpoises. Used to see Dall's porpoises there, but no more. Lots of pigeon guillemot's and probably some rhino auklets. Maybe even some marbled murrelet's as I've seen them in that area before.
It's 3 to 3.5 hours from Friday Harbor to Tumbo, and about 18 miles. You travel through time and space to a place far, far away, and a long, long time ago.
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| Winter Cove, Boat Passage |
