We have been back home for one week since the completion of our 2012 travels up in BC and the warm glow has yet to wear off. Even my friends on the bus and at work have commented that I look so relaxed I must have just been on vacation! My previous post explained how I took Aeolus north to Quadra Island so that we did not have to spend vacation days journeying north (having done that many times). Instead, we began our 14 day cruise with a drive to Campbell River and the ferry over to Quadra to find Aeolus happily waiting for us in Quathiaski Cove.
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| Start of trip at home in our custom "Aeolus" shirts |
Our good friends the Jones family were buddy boating with us aboard the Freedom 33 "Ocean Gypsy" for most of this trip. Their son is best friends with Elliott and we had a grand time weaving in and out of our times together as the days and anchorages passed by.
August 4th: Quathiaski Cove, Quadra Island through Seymour Narrows to Small Inlet on Quadra.
This was a great first day. We left Qcove at 6:15 am to be at Seymour at the 7:23 slack. Weather was beautiful as it would remain for the entire time in BC. Our passage through Seymour was smooth, and the beginning of the ebb pulled us along at about 7-8 knots on occasion. From my experience fighting the full flood to get Aeolus up to Quadra, I know full well how unwise it would be to battle any part of this passage at anything other than a favorable or benign current.
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| Hull speed of 6.3 so this is pretty nice! |
We had to motor all the way this day as there wasn't much wind and you can't play with the timing of these currents. Our approach to Small Inlet was lovely, and we found it basically empty. We remarked that if it was anywhere in Desolation Sound it would have been packed!
So what did we do once we got there at 10am? We went swimming of course! There is a trail from the head of Small Inlet to Newton Lake on Quadra. It is short, but steep toward the end, and the lake was just wonderful. This was our first lake swimming, or any outdoor swimming, of 2012, and I wait all year for the chance. The lake is just like all those we've seen up here, in being natural and having super warm water. We all swam to our hearts content and enjoyed it immensely.
August 5th: Small Inlet, Quadra Island to Handfield Bay on Sonora Island
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| One of the typical scenes aboard Aeolus |
The anchorage is nice and there were a handful of boats with us. There is a rough trail from the head of the bay across to a lagoon and it is worth a stretch of the legs.
August 6th: Handfield Bay, Sonora Island to Frances Bay, BC mainland
We enjoyed a great night sleep in Handfield Bay and headed out to round the northern tip of Sonora Island and go through the Yuculta Rapids. Turn to slack and flood was at 2pm, but we planned to get there at 1pm to push against the last of the ebb at Dent Rapids and make it to the Big Bay store for a few things and still have time to depart with the start of the flood down the Yuculta's.
All went according to plan as we left Handfield at 10:10am and got to Dent at about 1pm. Even then, the ebb was really pumping, and there were lots of minor whirlpools and standing waves and all sorts of clapotis. It was beautiful. We slowed down to 2 knots or so in places, but were able to make progress.
Stopping at Stuart Island was easy, but the store was so sparse that it hardly earns the name. Grabbing the few things we needed, and their only jar of mayonaise!, we headed out and caught the flood around to Frances Bay. It is an anchorage with nice views, but with lots of exposure and steep slopes for anchoring. We stern tied, but later thought we shouldn't have as a south wind came up just enough to bounce us around and make us wish we were swinging free.
The water here was warm, and Elliott and I enjoyed our first jumps off the pilothouse of the summer. Foraging along the beach, I found the most abundant and tasty huckleberries as well as fairly sweet and plump salal. Could have made a feast for sure.
August 7th: Frances Bay to Walsh Cove, West Redonda
The day dawned clear and cloudless and we all had slept soundly until 8am. We greeted the day with enthusiasm because we were headed to Walsh Cove! Oh, Walsh Cove, the place we treasure above all others. We departed Frances Bay and enjoyed a stunning journey around the northern side of West Redonda and Raza Islands.
It is so stunningly beautiful through these waters that it boggles the mind and defies all description. While cruising along in the rapture of the place, Amy decided to do something wonderful and crazy. She went below and put on her bathing suit and no sooner had she come back up on deck when she jumped right off into the water! When I saw her in a bathing suit I had grown suspicious, and so with rapid response I dropped the speed and spun around to pick her up. She was a bit disappointed that I had responded so quickly, but hey, would you have it otherwise? She reported the water was warm, and was not at all disturbed by the fact the water there is over 1,000 feet deep.
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| Back aboard and happy! |
We arrived at Walsh Cove at about 12 and immediately stern tied at our favorite spot on one of the islets. We were soon joined by our friends on Ocean Gypsy who nestled into a spot on our starboard side.
Walsh Cove is wonderful for many reasons, among them:
- Warm water for swimming
- Islets for all sorts of land and sea explorations
- Stunning mountain scenery all around
- A fresh water source
- Cliffs for all heights of jumping into the water
- A lagoon of sorts among the islets that is a wonderland to explore by foot at low tide and by kayak or swimming at higher tide
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| The inflatable paddleboard was a huge hit |
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| Walsh Cove views |
The sunset shot orange and red colors into the passing cumulus. It was 76 degrees in the boat at 10pm. We had plans to spend the entire next day at Walsh, and this ensured that we went to bed enormously happy!
August 8th: Walsh Cove
Another day of laze and play, pause and exertion. Amy swam around the islet today, about 1/4 mile and then returned to start another tasty dinner. Where does she find the energy to do all she does? Elliott spent the afternoon on the paddleboard again, but when I tried it for the first time I couldn't find my balance. It is good for the boys to see me not be good at something! Owen played with Banning, as they both love Lego's and imaginative play.
I took the kayak out for a spin and did a whole bunch of swimming and jumping off the islands.
The weather began cloudy with SE winds but later turned to bright warm sunshine.
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| Walsh Cover is a truly magnificent setting |
August 9th: Roscoe Bay
Roscoe Bay. Enough said.
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| With scenery like this, how can you not be in bliss? |
A few highlights:
- Sailing by the mouth of Pendrell Sound in a 15 knot breeze, close hauled.
- Elliott paddling the paddleboard all the way out the mouth of Roscoe Bay and back. Perhaps the most independent and adventurous thing he's ever done. I was proud of him, and told him so.
- Black Lake swimming and watching Amy and Elizabeth practice their synchronized swimming for the Olympics we are planning to do tomorrow.
- Owen rowing the dinghy around quite capably and properly. He experimented and finally came to understand the basic mechanics.
- A tree suddenly falling in the woods near the mouth of Black Lake and making a tremendous roar and crash.
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| Ocean Gypsy and Aeolus in Roscoe Bay |
Roscoe Bay was full of boats, as you would expect, but we still got our favorite spot near the head of the Bay with our friends right alongside. It was sunny and gorgeous and in every way a perfect day. The sail to here was about as fine as one could have, and there is something utterly magical about the snug confines of Roscoe Bay.
Our boat journal for this day ends with the sentence: " We are overcome with gratitude for being here."
August 10th: Roscoe Bay
This was a layover day for us and a layover day at Roscoe Bay has special delights. This particular day might have been the most leisurely we have ever experienced while on a cruise. It was sunny, 75 degrees, and calm. The morning was spent sleeping and eating in some good measure, and not until close to lunch time did we muster the wherewithal to do something more ambitious.
The 2012 London Olympics were going on at this time, and in the spirit of the games we decided to hold a little Olympics ourselves in Roscoe Bay. We split into three teams: Uruguay of Brian and Ellliott, Germany of Bill and Banning, and Moldovia (is that a country?) of Amy, Elizabeth and Owen. The games themselves consisted of several events, beginning with the medley. It consisted of a paddleboard trip around both anchored boats, and then a dinghy trip and then concluded with both people getting into the inflatable kayak for one more trip around.
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| Preparations for the Roscoe Bay Olympics! |
It was high drama, with all countries rooting vigorously for their flags while showing sportsmanship for their fellow contestants. Uruguay won the paddling medley to start things off right for that small South American nation.
Next was diving, with each person doing two dives. A mandatory head first and then one optional. Bill did a corkscrew twist feet first which won him high marks and Amy did the most graceful dive for Moldovia with a good form and a smooth entry. We think Moldovia won the diving, thanks in large part to Amy.
Then we had javelin, with Bill showing off his Grecian strength and winning the contest. Finally, we had a frisbee shot put with two mooring balls set up as targets. Uruguay pulled off the gold in a squeaker to clinch the overall title! Go Uruguay!
Later in this lazy day Elliott and I paddled the Helios kayak out of Roscoe Bay together and it gave me vivid glimpses of the sorts of paddling trips I foresee doing with the boys when they are a bit larger and more able. Hopefully their ability coincides with mine well enough!
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| Bill and Banning cross the finish line in the kayak race |
Unfortunately, this was the last decent paddle on our Helios because it sprang an air leak right through the fabric. I was appalled. This is a brand new Helios, already a replacement for one that came apart the summer before, and after only a couple gentle uses it was already leaking. Pathetic quality. I put some sealant on the area to slow the leak and used the boat a couple more times on the trip for short paddles, but it was essentially unsafe to use any distance from Aeolus. I later returned it to REI and exchanged it for the other inflatable they carry made by Adventure Systems. It is heavier, which is bad, but should be far more durable than that Helios!
This was a great day, and Amy commented how great it was to be out for two weeks instead of one. My response was "of course!" and won't four weeks be even better next summer!
August 11th, Teakerne Arm
We actually began this day with a long awaited hike up to the top of Mt. Llanover above Roscoe Bay. It is a 3.6 mile hike that climbs about 2,000 feet from sea level. Easy to follow and mostly a gentle grade, it was a fantastic walk with our boys and Banning. Sunny, warm and perfect. From the top you look West toward Refuge Cove and have spectacular views of the environs.
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| View roughly West from Mt. Llanover on West Redonda Island |
On our way up we saw a large toad, which was a rare treat, and on the way down we heard Elliott and Banning talk the entire way about this, that and the other thing. Non-stop, as only 11 year old boys can do.
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| All of us at the top, courtesy of the lone other hiker. |
Before reaching Teakerne we stopped at Refuge Cove for a few trifles and the main event: Ice Cream! Oh, how happy we were! Refuge Cove is such a convenient and hospitable stop in the Desolation Sound area, I am always grateful for that little community.
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| Aeolus tied at the mouth of the falls. |
On we went to Teakerne Arm, and no sooner had we stern tied to the rocks (this being an anchorage with steep shores and no way to swing freely) that we were all out on the cliffs and jumping off. The water here is warm and delightful. Amy and I swam from the boat all the way around to the waterfall at Cassel Falls. It is magical in every way. The water is an incredible color, the sound of the falls reverberates off the cliff walls, and as you swim closer, the water gets fresher and warmer from the falls itself. We swam all the way up to the falls and scrambled up onto the rocks to find a little hot tub that had been built just for our pleasure! Sitting there, in water that had to be at least 80 degrees or more, at the base of the falls, with views out to the waters beyond, was among the most special things we had ever done together. We laughed with glee and at our good luck. We later went to Cassel Lake and swam our little arms off in that delicious water. Must be the warmest fresh water in the area and with plenty of perfect logs to play with.
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| Cassel Falls at Teakerne Arm |
Amy recapped this day by saying:
7 mile hike to an incredible view--Check
Sailing along the prettiest inland sea in the world--Check
Ice cream--Check
Warm water swimming--Check
Waterfall--Check
A perfect day!
Laura Cove was once known as a sailboat anchorage, and over the years we have found this to be largely true. Even in summer we would tuck in to discover a handful of other smallish boats and it had a quiet, tranquil feel.
NOT THIS YEAR. Laura Cove was more like Las Vegas Cove. Prideaux Haven had migrated over. It was packed with huge mega-yachts of all sorts, cheek by jowl and we were lucky to even find a place to slip between the MV New York and the MV Chicago. Oh well. It is striking the difference these big boats make in an anchorage. For one thing they carry many more people, and often have extended families. For another, they are absolutely jam packed with water toys. Laura Cove looked like a theme park with all the huge floating doughnuts and surfboards and RIB's and paddle boards and other floating devices of every purchasable type.
We went directly over to the rope swing that is the calling card of Laura Cove, and joined the parade of other happy people delighting in its services. Even Owen took his very first swing on a rope, and that was worth putting up with the circus atmosphere.
We swam away the day, held a surprise birthday party for Banning, and enjoyed the views of East Redonda while we looked forward to leaving the next morning.
August 13th, Tenedos Bay and Lake Unwin--and then to Savary Island
We were up and gone by 8:30 am after a rough night in Laura Cove. The mega-yachts next to us were lit up like Las Vegas all night and had loud music playing well past our bed time. So with a bit of Lorax feeling, we lifted up our tails and fled away to Tenedos hoping for friendlier environs. We were not disappointed.
Tenedos is much less popular than the Prideaux/Laura/Melanie Cove complex, and we arrived to find only a handful of other boats spread throughout the anchorage. Any trip to Tenedos on the way south is a bittersweet experience, since it is both wonderful, and a goodbye to the Desolation Sound area. We knew that our swim at Lake Unwin would be our last lake swimming of the entire year. So with this in mind, we had no sooner dropped anchor than scrambled up to the lake and were in the water right away. Elliott and I swam off to the East where our favorite jumping rocks are located, and found another family present from Cortes Island. They were fellow small boat sailors, and just exactly the sort of people you like to meet in a remote place. Elliott and I jumped off the rocks numerous times, including the highest point of great fame where Elliott had done his first high jump several years ago.
After the jumping, we joined Amy and Owen and played for hours on some floating logs right near the rocky shore where we hang out. It is incredible how entertaining a plain log can be in the water. Where is the balance point? Does it submerge when you sit on it? How much? Is it slippery? Can multiple people sit on it? Can you stand on it and jump off? We are like otters at play, and love it with all our hearts.
Finally, we had our fill of swimming and raised anchor to go the 15 miles to Savary Island and round Sarah Point. The mood on Aeolus was somber as we headed away from Mt. Addenbroke and when rounding Sarah Point itself, my eyes were glued on the whole area as the Malaspina Peninsula slowly blocked the view. We wanted to get to Savary as we knew it was time to head south, and knocking off those 15 miles saved us a few hours the next day when we would head to Jedidiah.
The trip was smooth, and the weather remained hot, calm and blissful. We dropped anchor off the southeastern corner of Savary just a bit inside of Mace Point. In depths of 30 feet at high tide we were still more than 100 yards from shore and felt very exposed. The forecast was for 10-15 knot NW winds, and we were tucked safely in the lee of Savary, but the current was running strong and I was nervous being so exposed from all sides. So we set the hook and let out plenty of scope. The current was ebbing from the NW at about 3 knots. Really moving through here.
We jumped in the dinghy and rowed the considerable distance over to the lovely and famous beach of Savary. It is truly splendid. Don't think there is a bigger, better beach anywhere in the Salish Sea. Soft sand and shallow, and in the typical calm conditions in the Strait, just a pleasure to enjoy.
While we were lounging on the beach a young lady walked past with a guitar over her shoulder. I called out saying "Hey, will we get a song? You look like a traveling minstrel!". To which she replied, "I'm actually here practicing for a show I'm doing and would love to play for you!". She sauntered over and sat near us and began to play. I know this will sound creepy, but there can be little as seductive as a pretty woman sitting on a sandy beach playing lovely songs on a guitar. It was enthralling. She sang in that sweet breathy voice that is all the rage these days, and had excellent voice control. It was among the most transcendent and wonderful moments of the entire summer.
But alas, she wandered off after playing several songs and my anxiety about leaving Aeolus so exposed compelled me to return. We enjoyed the long row back to Aeolus and yet another lovely night in the warm weather on the Salish Sea. Being so relatively far from land made us feel almost like we were offshore. And our excitement was palpable because the next day we were headed to Jedidiah Island!
August 14th, Deep Bay, Jedidiah Island
We departed Savary Island after a long and restless night. Because of our exposure and concern about unforecasted winds and strong currents, I was awake every 30 minutes all night long. Ah, the life of a captain. So it was no big deal to depart at 6:50am since I was wide awake anyway. Winds were 5-15 from the NW for our trip south to Jedidiah, and we arrived at 12:45 for a six hour trip. The trip is scenic along Texada, and delightful.
We anchored once again in Deep Bay, this year on the North side. Deep Bay requires stern tying and it would be easy to cross anchors if you aren't careful. Holding seems to be fine, though it must be a torn up bottom and we've never really been tested there.
Jedidiah is without question among the most precious places anywhere from Olympia, Washington to Campbell River, BC. Even among the small number of similar islands that are entirely protected as parks, it stands out as unique due to its setting, and geography. And by geography, I mean that holistically. The combination of geology, botany, zoology and human history, make it absolutely extraordinary.
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| The Windrope boys in Home Meadow-A wondrous place |
I cannot begin to express my full appreciation to the Palmer family for their generous "donation" of the island to BC. They sold it for a very small price, relative to the value, and it was a milestone fundraising effort to raise even that smaller price. The testimonials about the money given are enough to make anyone humble and profoundly grateful. It should not be forgotten that the Palmer family was originally from California, as were so very many of the people who owned islands and farms in BC. Wallace Island further south was also owned by a couple from Los Angeles. Being from SoCal myself originally, I feel kindred with these other people who fell in love with BC and wanted to stay.
So once we arrived on land we headed off to Home Bay to explore the old homestead. On the walk across the island you go through an area of ancient forest and then approach the incredible meadow that borders Home Bay. The meadow is filled with sedges and grasses and even field mint. Because the weather had been so warm, the entire field was aromatic and the mint was overpowering to the senses.
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| White, soft sand beach in Home Bay. |
Amy and I agreed that Jedidiah Island is yet one more place where we need to have our ashes spread, and of all the islands we've visited, it would surely be the one we would choose to homestead ourselves. It is dry, being in the rain shadow of Strathcona Provincial Park on Vancouver Island, and yet wet enough to support springs and creeks. It has peaks and meadows, cove after cove, and views to nearby massive Texada and across the Straits of Georgia south and north and west.
It is, for all practical and effective purposes, a perfect place.
August 15th, Deep Bay, Jedidiah Island
We stayed this day because leaving would be sacrilegious. Our friends on Ocean Gypsy had joined us on Jedidiah and were anchored in a nearby cove. We joined Elizabeth and Banning this morning to take a hike up to Mt. Gibraltar, the highest point on Jedidiah. It is not well named, as the peak itself is not too dramatic, but anyplace that gives you a good view is pretty special in this part of the world.
Elliott remembered the unofficial trail that branches off from the main trail and takes you to Gibraltar. It is not well marked, and would be very easy to miss. We wound our way up to the peak in short time, remembering that it is much shorter and easier than other favorite hikes in the Salish Sea. Once up top we all enjoyed the fantastic views and the bright sunny weather. There is a cairn at the top and a nice journal to record your thoughts.
An entry from our boat journal sums up much of this day:
"Time is in full trip mode. This is not a mode found on any watches. It is a state of time that is not strictly linear. I've heard the Australian aboriginals had a different sense of time, and maybe they understand what we now only experience on extended trips unbound by the tyranny of clocks. Today, after we had hiked up the mountain, it was clearly not a particular time, but some looser version of it. It is greater, and far richer. More subtle. Preferable."
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| Top of Mt. Gibraltar |
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| One of the feral Spanish goats on Jedidiah |
So this was yet another amazing day, filled with a difficult to describe combination of leisure and activity. We hiked a peak and swam, and laid around on the beach in the sun and did nothing for hours.
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| Swimming at the entrance to Home Bay |
Oh Jedidiah, we cannot wait to visit you again and to discover what sort of magic we can create together for our family.
August 16th, Wally's Bay, DeCourcy Island
We left Deep Bay, Jedidiah Island at 8am. Before this, Amy got up and rowed our dinghy around Paul Island at 6:30 am and loved it. We motored out to the southern shore of Lasqueti and found a strong 15 knots of wind that allowed us to raise sails. We enjoyed this breeze on a close reach all the way down to the Ballenas Islands, and there is something wondrous about crossing The Straits of Georgia under sail. Once in the area we turned south and had a broad reach almost all the way to Neck Point at the entrance Nanaimo Harbor.
The weather was clear and warm yet again, just as it had been.
We stopped at Nanaimo Harbor for a few hours, taking advantage of their 3 hours free policy. We had some bad Thai food downtown, but the main benefit was filling our water tank and dropping off some trash. Nanaimo is a pleasant enough little town, so long as you are passing through. On this trip we didn't have time to play on Newcastle Island, but that special place is almost reason alone to hang out near Nanaimo. Our friends on Ocean Gypsy rafted up to us while we were rafted to a fishing boat. We both stayed until the time was right to catch the slack at Dodd Narrows, which was beautiful as always and uneventful.
Once at DeCourcy, we anchored as usual in Wally's Bay on the south side. This was to be our last night in Canada, and at one of our favorite places, so we were certainly feeling nostalgic already. Elliott rowed the paddleboard all around the cove this night, and Owen walked the rocky shoreline of the point all the way around to the beach. Our two boys were literally growing up right before our eyes. The night was long and lovely, filled once more with great food and good times.
Tomorrow, we begin the push south to Bainbridge.
August 17th, MacKaye Harbor, Lopez Island--57 mile day
5:50am depart Wally's Bay. Calm and clear.
7:00 am Amy takes shift, doing one hour rotations
9:15 am. Just through Sansum Narrows where we hit 9.1 knots with the ebb.
12:30 pm At Roche Harbor Customs Dock. Cleared Customs.
1:30 pm Left Roche Harbor through a maze of boats. Entire anchorage seemingly full.
4:10 pm At False Bay on West Side of San Juan Island. Had eddies down to near Lime Kiln, and then hit full flood between there and Pile Point. Slowed to 1knot SOG for quite some time. Not moving much. Now back to 5 knots. Max flood was at 2:30 pm.
5:30 pm At MacKaye Harbor on the south side of Lopez. Anchored near public dock, took a walk.
August 18th, Blakely Harbor, Bainbridge Island--56 mile day
Considered various options of getting home, and in the end, we went all the way in one day. We left MacKaye Harbor at 10:15 am in order to get to Pt. Wilson for the start of the flood at 1pm. Being at Pt. Wilson when an ebb is running against West winds is a dreadful thing. On this day, the forecast was for 15-25 knots in the eastern Straits, rising to gale winds of 25-35 after 6pm. We all know the time reliability of forecasts is plus or minus several hours, so this made us a bit nervous.
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| For was thick in the Straits |
As we headed out toward Smith Island we were catching the last of the ebb, and it helped a considerable amount. We managed a SOG of nearly 8 knots as we approached Smith, and then it soon died down to the start of the flood as we approached Point Wilson. Perfect. A fog came up south of Smith and we had limited visibility for quite a while. Down to 1/4 mile at times, and this in a busy shipping area. We had our radar on, and used our rechargeable fog horn a few times. The waning ebb was undercutting the western ground swell in the Straits to make it a bit choppy, but nothing too dramatic.
The flood picked us up in Admirality Inlet and sure enough we rode it right on past Port Townsend and decided to go all the way to Bainbridge. Doing 6-8 knots SOG all the way, we arrived at 6:45 pm.
8 hours from South Lopez to Bainbridge is not bad at all. Not bad at all.
Our trip was done. And we felt as we always feel: grateful for it to have been, and glad to be home safe and sound. Given that we would have gladly stayed out several more months, it was nevertheless an immensely satisfying trip!
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