July 4th escapade and Sea Star sadness

As is our pattern for the three day holidays, we got away to British Columbia to avoid the crowds in the American islands over the 4th of July. It sounds somehow unpatriotic to go to Canada for the 4th of July, but I suppose it celebrates the freedoms our founding mothers fought for. Having been to Tumbo many times this winter and early spring we decided to go to some less traveled favorite places instead. We got to Friday Harbor on Thursday night and slept well for the Friday departure for points north.

On the way north, passing Spieden Island

Our first stop was Russel Island just off the southern shore of Salt Spring. It is a gem of a little island with an easy anchorage on the north side. It is unique in having a standing home from the pioneer days and even a visitor welcoming program hosted by direct descendants of the original non-native settlers. The matriarch of the family was half Hawaiin and half First Nations, and her husband was evidently half Caucasian and half First Nations. Now, their great grandchildren take turns in July and August staying at the home and telling stories to the visitors. It's the only place in the Salish Sea that has such a program. I really appreciate it, as I believe that pioneer history is fading from the islands and landscape quite quickly.

While on Russel we walked the shoreline looking for sea stars, having heard about the wasting disease that is killing them all up and down the West Coast. Sure enough, we could not find any for some time. And then, when we did find one, it was the most tragic and pathetic looking thing. It was missing several limbs, and shriveled up in death's grip. This disease just dissolves them from inside like they were held in an acid bath. Walking along the shore a little further on and we came across two more in the same dead and decrepit condition.



I cannot express the deep sadness that overcame me during this time. Sea stars are an ever present, colorful, and vital part of shorelines all over the Pacific. They have lived there for thousands upon thousands and even millions of years. To think that they are dying wholesale, disappearing completely, going extinct, right before our eyes, is profoundly depressing. Scientists do not know the cause, and it defies simple understanding. But it is difficult to imagine the cause not being related to human actions in some way. It may be that soon we will see no more ochre stars, sunflower stars, bat stars, leather stars, brittle stars or any other stars for the rest of our lives in nature...This disease seems to have a 0% survival rate. Even a 5% survival rate would give reason for hope. But no, it seems to kill all of them despite any genetic diversity that may exist.

Is this the last sea star I will see in the Salish Sea in my lifetime?

I hope for good news soon that some populations have some immunity or survivability, but for now, it is a distinct possibility that these dear friends of mine since childhood will no longer be around. 

The next day we left Russel and went through Sansum Narrows and around Salt Spring. It is so beautiful. Rugged, dramatic. It is the southernmost place that resembles so many of the places further north. It has the high rocky bluffs that so characterize Jedidiah and environs. We had to motor the entire day as this entire trip lacked any wind. We decided to stop at Wallace Island to take advantage of the hiking opportunities. We did. Anchoring in Princess Bay we first hiked to the southern tip, and then circled back and walked/ran to the Chivers Point in the north. The island has been logged and so there are few big old trees but it has been quite a few decades since the last harvest and so there are decent second growth trees around. 

Elliott, Owen and I ran the last mile or so to the top. It was awesome to run with the boys. 

We had a great trip with all the usual entertainments and family time. Can't wait to go back next week for a full week of exploring.

Da boys