A summer week of exploring, and a summer storm to remember

The boys and I took off for an end of summer trip and a last chance to swim in comfortable salt water in 2016. It has been an incredible summer, filled with adventures, and yet light on big boat trips. Now that the boys are big enough, we are tackling some favorite backpacking locations to expand their familiarity with North American geography. This year was the Canadian Rockies.

But this kept us from getting up into Desolation Sound or further north this summer, and that is a sadness. To partially make it up, and to appease our need for summer swimming in BC, the boys and I took off for a quick trip into the northern Gulf Islands. We knew we didn't have time, or want to push enough, to get up to Jedidiah or our favorite places further up the Straits of Georgia, so we aimed instead for either DeCourcy or Wallace.

Our first day out from Anacortes was lovely and calm. We powered our way to Prevost Harbor on Stuart and didn't get there until fairly late due to a late start. It was a rare thing indeed as we dropped anchor and never even went to shore. Due to it being August and all the fair weather boaters, the part of the anchorage near the public dock in Prevost was packed. Few seem to know there is an easy and lovely anchorage over by the County Dock and Erickson farm that has great holding and no obstacles. We dropped there, and enjoyed the better views out to the coast ranges and Boundary Pass.

The next day we were off north. In the end we decided to stop at Wallace Island and not push the additional time to DeCourcy. We poked our noses into Conniver Cove and were surprised to find that there was room for us stern tied against the eastern shore. We arrived fairly early, around lunch time, and were delighted. Anchoring in this cove is a very sketchy proposition, as I have related in previous posts. The holding is really poor in a torn up mud bottom, and the spaces are tight. This time, with our Mantus Anchor, I had great confidence we would not budge, but our neighbors were still a concern.

We had no sooner dropped the anchor than we had on our swim shorts and were jumping in. Oh the joys of salt water swimming in water that is above 70 degrees! My temperature gauge said the water in the cove was 80F, and it might have been at the surface.

Owen paddling our inflatable kayak in Conover Cove, Wallace Island

We enjoyed this day and the morning of the next doing all the lovely things one can do at Wallace. Owen paddled the kayak, as did I. Elliott stayed in the hammock for extended periods. We walked north up to Panther Point to view the twilight on the water. We played frisbee in the field. All a joy.

Since we only planned on four days, and we didn't want to go from Wallace all the way back to Anacortes in a day, which is 50 miles, we left on Saturday after lunch and made some distance south down to Winter Cove on Saturna. Our last visit there was this winter, and we were alone. Now there were dozens of boats, and it was festive. There was even a competitive softball game going on in the field above the dock. Red against blue, local teams. We watched a few innings and enjoyed being fans.



It was hot on this trip. 90's down in Seattle. Too hot for us lightweight fair skinned folks. The sun had us retreating to the the shade of the boat during the afternoon.

Everyone who goes to Winter Cove must walk out to the Boat Passage area on the lovely park trails. The water on this day was raging out, as it does on the flood tide, and we got to see a very fast power boat zoom through while we were there. A truly magical place in the Salish Sea.

On what was supposed to be our last day, hint, we left Winter Cove on Sunday and first went north through the pass above Samuel Island. Once heading south, we had anticipated catching the beginning ebb right on down to Anacortes. Boiling Reef was a bit bouncy, and always breathtaking in beauty, but we then proceeded just fine down toward the US and Sucia. The forecast on this day for the Northern Inland waters was for South winds from 5-15 knots.

The boys at Boat Passage, Winter Cove. 

South 5-15 knots.

South 5-15 knots.

As we approached the area between Sucia and Waldron we saw white caps and spray in the air. Then we noticed a rescue helicopter circling, and rescue boats in the area. We started to encounter strong breezes, and large waves, and still didn't take it too seriously. Before we knew it, we were in a maelstrom, with very strong winds, confused seas, steep waves and a washing machine of water. Waves were 4-6 feet, gaining size through the gap between Waldron and Orcas, and yet tormented by the strong ebb against them and shifting currents in a place of confused water.

Boat Passage. Gorgeous day before the storm. 

Thus began about 90 minutes of some of the roughest conditions we have ever experienced. Rougher even than anything we encountered going around Vancouver Island. We had solid water going over our dodger and hitting me soundly in the face and chest. Our Gulf 32 isn't a 60 footer, but she handles rough things better than most her size, but this was a version of hell. The seas was being tormented by fierce winds, fierce currents and the chaos of nearby passes and reefs.

How much wind? I estimated 30-40 knots at the time. But when we got home to Anacortes today, I happened to run into a sailor who had survived the same conditions, and his boat anemometer had steady winds of 40 and a gust to 54.

Forecast of south 5-15.
Reality of SW 30-40 with gusts to 54.

I already had jack lines set up and my tethers attached, and found myself tethering up in the cockpit for real fear I could be tossed so violently that I could be injured. I had the boys suited up and they were stoic heroes.

We fought our way through this, agonizingly, and made it into the lee of Orcas further south. Exhausted, we headed south toward Anacortes, only to see that up ahead, where Orcas is closest to Cypress and where the SW winds had fetch again, it was another maelstrom. The sea was solid white caps being ripped apart by the howling wind, and the air was filled with spray. We could see this clearly from a few miles away. And the ground swell being generated by this was already hitting us with large waves. After a quick consultation, we agreed that we simply were not up for anymore of this. And I didn't say it, but I felt the conditions were actually threatening to the safety of my family. If we had any significant gear failure, we would be in a very dangerous situation very quickly.

So instead we turned around and headed back to Sucia and Fossil Bay. This wasn't any cake walk, as the conditions near the southern edge of Sucia were still horrendous. But at least we knew the anchorage was protected. With great relief, we got a ball far in the bay and collapsed with relief.

We enjoyed our unplanned day on Sucia for sure, and the conditions died down during the early afternoon. Today we had calm conditions all the way home and despite a forecast of SW winds 10-20, it was never more than 10.

Elliott on Sucia looking out to where the conditions had been  horrible earlier. 

Forecasting is an incredibly hard thing in our local extreme conditions, so I don't fault the NWS, but it was a reminder to always go out on the sea being prepared for extremely challenging conditions. I already had my jack lines rigged, and the hatches battened down. We took repeated and continuous sheets of solid water onto the pilothouse windows and though some water was forced through the gaps, it was nothing problematic. Even my boys thanked me for being so careful with all of our boat maintenance.

I told them, you don't maintain your boat or machines only for the enjoyment of good conditions, but for the eventuality of extreme conditions, which will find anyone once in a while if you enjoy a life of outdoor adventure. Can I say how glad I am I repaired and cleaned out fuel tank this winter?!?!