Was able to finally haul out at Port of Olympia after a pandemic delay and only had to do bottom paint and a prop clean. But this time I put a coat of red PCA Gold on first and then topped with blue, as I want to have a better sense of the rate it ablates. I fear it is accumulating a bit more than dissipating, and this will tell me. I also decided to try the Petit Zinc Prop Coat on the prop instead of more lanocote prop coat as I figure I can't do much worse. The lanocote lasts a bit less than a year, and then I am constantly fighting barnacles. I even had a full on OYSTER growing on the base of the prop at this haulout.
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| Such a stout and lovely vessel |
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| Also used an aluminum instead of zinc |
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| Now if that isn't the wrong way to see a boat, I don't know what is! |
9 comments:
Well I recently acquired a Gulf 32 1966 model I'm sure it is much different than yours but I would like to trade info
Obviously I don't know how this works
I have a 1967 Gulf 32 that I am installing a new engine in. I also would like to trade information. I am a farmer in Oregon near Corvallis. Thank you. JR
JR I have a Gulf 32 1966 bull #19 I would sure like to trade information pictures etc
Quite odd there are two people posting here with boats that are supremely rare early production models. Feel free to help each other, but don't share any personal information as this site suffers from scam artists like all others. The earlier versions from the 60's were indeed different in many ways, other than hull design.
Hi Brian, I am curious about your anchoring system. I don't have a Sampson post on our Gulf and am going to have to rebuild the manual windlass base. I am concerned about using the windlass to secure the anchor rode even after I rebuild it. wondering how you secure yours. also, how do you get down into the Dingy safely? we have a 45 lb dog that will be sailing with us and I thought you had devised a collapsable or foldable step but can't seem to locate it in your blogs.
Thank you for sharing all your adventures and projects, have been very helpful as we have just acquired "Thetis" and am upgrading as time and weather (Homer, Alaska) permits.
thank you again!
Don
Hi Don. The system on Aeolus is quite robust. There is bow roller system you can see in many pictures that is well anchored to the bow of the boat with supports. I find it super handy to have the second roller even though I have never had to set two anchors off the bow, as I use the second side for my anchor snubber line.
The windlass itself, a Lofrans Tigres, is mounted on the deck. When I got the boat it was just mounted on the deck itself and had a backing plate underneath, accessible under the headlner boards in the Vberth. I added an additional backing plate under the windlass itself, to better distribute the loads.
I've always heard you should not use the windlass as your load bearing device, but I work around this in rough conditions by using a nylon three strand anchor snubber to reduce shock loads. Makes a big difference. There is a pawl on the Tigres that prevents the forces being placed on the friction of the gypsy alone. Between the bow roller taking a lot of the force, and the anchor snubber line, I've never had any trouble with forces on the windlass. It has never been stressed in any way that showed wear or did damage or strained the mounting.
As you may know if you've read this blog, we have anchored Aeolus in quite a few really rough situations. Winds 30-40 and some fetch. Not Patagonia, but rough. With the Mantus anchor, and this system, I love my ground tackle and trust dropping most anywhere. Note I use HT chain in 5/16 and 100' and then beefy 8 strand nylon for another 150'. If it is deep, or crappy, I can let out a lot of scope.
Hi Brian, I'm having problems with the connection of the steering quadrants & was wondering if you've had any experience managing the assembly that connects the two.
Jim_Panian@hotmail.com
I've not had to work much on my quadrant area Jim. No particular expertise other than knowing I could see how mine is put together. Down the road I intend to replace the wire as they say you should, but it sure looks pristine. By the way, I wouldn't post your email here.
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