Sunday, July 7, 2024

A perfect 4th and Gulf Island getaway!

 It's not like us to hang around civilization over the long 4th of July weekend, instead celebrating the freedom of our founding principles by getting into remote places. This year, we've been hosting a Rotary Youth Exchange student, and they naturally wanted to experience an American 4th of July. So we went up to Friday Harbor on the evening of the 3rd and hung out all day in town for the 4th and the fireworks that night. 

What a perfect day it turned out to be. Besides the weather, which was warm with a cool breeze, the town really does a nice job of being festive. The parade began around 10:30am and was thoroughly delightful. The exact sort of small town parade you would hope for, including golden retrievers, horses, the local fire department, and all sorts of quirky random stuff. My personal favorite was seeing a little girl on a miniature horse. The crowd favorite was probably the giant pirate ship that actually belched flames from the mouth of a dragon on the bow and dropped bubbles out of the stern to simulate ship wake. Great turnout, lots of patriotism with none of the nasty associations. The librarians got huge applause! 


We left Friday morning for British Columbia and had to stop first at Bedwell due to our student being with us. Conditions were benign and sunny all day. No wind. Forecast was for strong winds that night from the NW so we left Bedwell and did the beautiful journey around the corner to Winter Cove and Saturna Island. The headwall of Saturna that faces West is among the most grand sites in all the Salish Sea. Winter Cove was only lightly occupied and we had no trouble dropping the hook in our favorite spot off the park dock. We were quickly ashore and out to the Boat Passage point to admire the spectacular scenery of it all. That little park has a lovely trail system that loops about .5 miles and is well worth walking twice. 

At Boat Passage looking back south


We jumped off Aeolus and swam later that afternoon, but Amy puts us to shame by swimming back to the boat from the dock about 100 meters. Winter Cove is shallow and a bit warmer than the open water. 

That night the wind did come up and blow about 20-25knots. We waited for the wind to diminish as was forecasted and for the ebb to slacken before heading through Georgeson Passage. It's a tight and beautiful pass that really does have pumping current. Not far off from Dodd Narrows in beauty and power of water. The tide and current book says it is 50% of Active Pass but that just doesn't make sense when you see it pumping at 6 knots toward the end of the cycle. So we didn't leave Winter Cove to go to Tumbo until 10 or so. 

Oh Tumbo! How we love you so! It's two hours around from Winter Cove to Tumbo, and no, we have not yet been brave enough to go through Boat Passage though I see sailboat do it regularly and it's plenty deep. At Tumbo we beat the crowds and grabbed a ball near Cabbage. Right after we arrive every ball got taken! 





Exploring Tumbo is like walking through a dream. Every step invites pause and reflection. We walked to and along the marsh to the far southern side, and were greeted again by the majesty of that location. The views toward Mt. Baker and Sucia and Orcas and Lummi are just beyond words. The feeling of airiness and grandeur take your breath away. We also went out to the far southern tip of Tumbo, which no trail accesses, as you just walk the shoreline. There was a bald eagle nest there, and the parents were displeased with our arrival. Loads of harbor seals as well at the point. 

Meandering back to the dinghy and to Aeolus for some rest, we later went to Cabbage for a reunion with that lovely place. We circumnavigated, as must be done, and Amy swam back to Aeolus again. There are strong currents in Reef Harbor but she fought hard and did it. So proud of her courage and strength. 

The sunset from Tumbo, if it is clear, is the best in the San Juans/Gulf Islands area. It sets over the ocean, as the land is too distant and the curvature of the Earth hides it. 

Our voyage back today began at 5:45 am and was the fastest ever. Seas were flat. No wind. A strong ebb helped the whole way and we did 7-8 knots for the 2.5 hours it took to do 20 miles. We go down and through President's Channel. Gorgeous. Getting up with the dawn is not at all something I do regularly, but while on Aeolus, it almost always brings great things. 

It was a perfect 4 day weekend in perfect conditions and we had the best time aboard our dear Gulf 32, who continues to be our space ship to paradies. 

2 comments:

Clint said...

Hi, Brian

Thanks for the lovely and consistent posts. My son, 21 years old is looking at buying a Gulf 32 down here in LA. It would be his first vessel and while exciting, a bit nerve wracking for his folks (my wife and I). The boat he is buying seems solid though weathered. Any advice as to what he should really look out for in this vessel?

Any and all advice would be super helpful.

Thank you for your time.

Best,
Clint

Brian W. said...

Hi Clint,
That is a big deal indeed! Most of what applies to a Gulf 32 is generic to other boats and I cannot speak highly enough about Don Casey's books and Nigel Calder. Too often the Gulf 32 is used a live aboard, and the rigging and motor are left to decay. Any good marine surveyor, which you should hire, will tell you what the problems may be. Capital Yachts built these to a price point about like Catalina Yachts. Fine, and solid, but not fancy. My devotion to the Gulf 32 is due to the genius of the design by Bill Garden and the way the boat can be modified to suit so many needs. Good luck with the choice of a boat and best wishes.