Desolation Sound 2023

 We've returned from our first trip to Desolation Sound since pre-COVID and the wait only made it more fantastic. We had both our boys with us, grown men now, and their choice to join us and be all together made it extra special. We traveled about 450 miles all told, from Friday Harbor as far north as Quadra Island and all around West Redonda and environs. 

This summer had little smoke, we are glad to say. Temps were generally warm and plenty of sunshine. And most noticeably, we had the most benign winds of any trip we've ever been on up there. Both crossings of the Straits of Georgia were in calm winds or less than 15 knots with us. 

To travel the immensity of the Straits of Georgia, so much larger and expansive and more wondrous than tiny Puget Sound, is to feel enormously small. And once up to the northern reaches of it, the maze of islands that tower out of the sea overwhelms your senses. 

We swam every day, in ocean and lakes, jumped off cliffs of all sizes. A highlight of this trip was that all of us mustered the courage to do backflips off the rail of Aeolus! Only the boys could execute a full rotation, but we all threw our heads backwards and did our best. 

Highlights: 

• A huge pod of white sided dolphins came all the way into Tenedos Bay and were jumping like popcorn. Sometimes they would jump together. Just amazing to see so up close. 
• Humpback whales all over the place
• Newton Lake, Hague Lake, Lake Unwin, Cassel Lake-how we love you all. 
• Walsh Cove and her many delights and jumps. 
• Laura Cove and the rope swing. 
• Family time and togetherness! 

Our world in my hand

Blown out of Tumbo and West to more paradise

 For the long 4th weekend we like to celebrate our freedoms and independence by traveling! We got away to Canada for only the second time since COVID prohibitions and it felt truly magical. We had intended to spend the entire time at Tumbo/Cabbage since it is our favorite spot, and all started off well. 

We left Friday Harbor with the flood and made good time all the way to the tip of Saturna and through Boundary Pass. Calm seas and blue skies. Just sublime. All the textures of the Salish Sea delight those who choose to focus. Sky, water and islands all conspire to inspire. 

We grabbed a ball in Reef Harbor as there were many boats, and little Cabbage was full of campers. We noted it wasn't too full, but since we are normally here virtually alone, and this was Canada Day on July 1st, it was remarkably busy. We went to Cabbage and enjoyed our walk around, marveling at the many sights and textures. I keep coming back to the word textures because that was what occupied my attention so much on this trip. I kept being enthralled by the textures of everything, and no I wasn't on ecstasy or shrooms. Just so many incredible textures. 

Approaching the tip of Saturna

That night the forecast said NW 20-30 South of Nanaimo. For those familiar with the local weather patterns, it if often the case that what happens up near Nanaimo does not make it down as far south as Tumbo. This forecast area is in my opinion too large. It encompasses the entire Gulf Islands, and anyone who knows anything knows the weather of the Gulf Islands is nothing like what happens out in the Straits. So we went to bed a bit concerned but not too alarmed, as Reef is open to the full fetch of NW winds. 

On July 1 before the night and wind on Cabbage

Amy woke me up at 12:20am saying "Brian, are we OK?" Any day that begins at midnight with that question is certain to be dramatic. I woke to the sound of crashing waves and our own boat galloping up and down at the buoy. Oh crap. I got dressed enough to go out and add a second back up line to the line we had on the buoy, and this required some creative use of our grabber tool to thread the second line through the buoy ring in the surging and bouncing seas that were 3-4 feet in the Harbor. I managed this, and then went inside and laid there unsleeping past 1am, 2am, 3am, 4am and upon dawn near 5am, I got up and looked around. I was met with the most remarkable sight in Reef Harbor. We've spent countless nights and weeks in that anchorage at all times of year, but this time was unique. The entire anchorage was a lee shore to these giant waves coming down the Straits and waves were breaking on all sides. 

It took no time at all to realize we couldn't stay, but had few good options. We could have fought our way out and turned south with the seas and tried to shelter at the bottom of Tumbo, but then you are stuck. We decided instead to fight our way all the way north to Georgeson Passage to get to Winter Cove. 

Those who follow this blog know we go out in all seasons and conditions. Aeolus is a truly stout vessel. But what greeted us at the mouth of Reef Harbor was as ugly as you'd ever like to see. Small sets of 3-4 foot waves and larger sets of 6-9 feet. We would never go more than 3 knots and at times, slowed to less than 1 knot. Those kind of conditions. At the helm, it's one hand on the wheel and one hand gripped on the steering pedestal. We were headed more or less 15 degrees of so off the main NW direction of the seas, and this usually helped. A few of the bigger monsters had us rise up into the sky and plunge down into the trough so deeply that the next close wave buried the bow of Aeolus in green water. That's very rare but happens. But we chugged along. 

Somehow Amy and Owen didn't feed the fishes. We made our way in the agonizing slowness of such voyages, slowly gaining ground and getting toward shelter. After more than an hour of alarming conditions and some really nasty moments of being tossed around like rag dolls, we ever so slowly got into the lee of the islets near Boat Passage and gained some protection. 

Nothing is as sweet in this life as having such adventures of living to tell the tale with no harm done. We enjoyed a very fast 8-9 knot ride down Georgeson with the ebbing current, and found Winter Cove still packed from all the July 1 boats. We grabbed a great spot in the dead calm anchorage, and were quick to give each other warm hugs of love and glee. 

We enjoyed Saturna and Winter Cove immensely, such a lovely spot. The Boat Passage area and frisbee in the field. Good times. 

Boat Passage/Winter Cove

We left the next day and went to Portland Island and Princess Bay and had a fantastic hike around wonderful Portland Island. Princess Bay is quite shallow and thick with kelp, so you may have trouble getting your anchor to set. We had to set ours twice and never ever have to do that with our Mantus. Portland has no deer and the flora is quite lush for this reason. Lots of birds. Amy swam quite a bit, and I jumped in too. Owen too. He also paddle boarded our inflatable to the nearby islets and reported they were thick with oystercatchers. 

Coming back today we timed it perfectly. The ebb is huge right now and was 6+ knots in Spieden Channel, so we waited as long as we could to head to Friday Harbor knowing the ebb would sometimes help, and hurt. The main slowing is as you approach Spieden from Haro Strait and along Stuart. Spent a long time here doing 3 knots. Once to Spieden you hug the shore like a kayaker and the eddy moves you along at +2 your boat speed. We did 8 knots along the whole length. Then you ferry angle your little buns off to cross between Spieden and Limestone point, making no progress but moving laterally. Once south and clear of Limestone you eventually get helped by the ebb again and go back to 8 knots down San Juan Channel. I'm proud to say we left Portland at 9:30 am as intended, and were tied to our slip in Friday Harbor at 1:11 pm just 11 minutes off my 1pm plan. We caught the 1:55 ferry back to Anacortes. 

Princess Cove/Portland Island

Northern tip of Portland

Trips like this are the most inspirational, refreshing, invigorating and calibrating things. They remind you of all you are, and what matters to you. My family is the best, and we are so fortunate to share in these travels. 

A stormy jaunt

 It is wisely said that the most dangerous thing on a boat...is a calendar. The truth being that if you can travel based on the forecast and not on the calendar you can avoid a very large percentage of troubles at sea. Being weekend warriors, more or less, until we retire, we still boat too much by the calendar. 

This weekend we got aboard Aeolus despite the SE 25-35 forecast and headed to Jones and the north cove. Leaving Friday Harbor around 1:30 pm was in the midst of the ebb, flowing against that SE wind, so the seas were quite choppy. About as choppy as they get in San Juan Channel. Winds were 35-40 at Smith Island. But once you turn out of Friday Harbor it's on your stern and we rolled our way easily north to Jones. Seas were maybe 3-4 feet at most. We went ashore and walked over to the south side to stretch our legs, and by the time we returned to Aeolus, the sun was trying to break through. We ended up having some nice time in the cockpit with the sun streaming nicely. 

This rock formation in the north cove is so spectacular. 

Instead of staying the night, like always, we actually headed back to Friday Harbor a few hours later since we were eager to see one of our sons back home, who had just returned from a backpacking trip, and the forecast was for more storms and rain Sunday morning again against the ebb. By leaving that evening, we had flood going with the ebb. 

What a difference those few hours made! Seas were practically calm, despite the wind remaining stiff. Never ceases to amaze the difference current has on wave behavior. 

An out and back. You might think this would be too short to be satisfying, yet it isn't. Just being out is such a washing clean of the civilized life. We got to see an old friend that night in Friday Harbor, a town so greatly reduced in options compared to a few years ago. 

Aeolus is in fine shape and we had a great little voyage. Anxious for our return to Desolation Sound this summer! 

President's Day weekend escape

 Forecast high winds kept us from hopping over to Victoria so we stayed close to home and our sheltered waters in San Juan Channel and returned to Jones. It was a lovely and benign weekend. Didn't get to the anchorage on the north side until darkness. It was about nautical twilight when we pulled in and it was a strange experience to anchor there without light. No problem. 

Just a sunset scene looking north from Jones

Sunday we enjoyed hiking all around, playing frisbee and climbing trees. Being feral. 

The Cubic Mini stove continues to delight us. It keeps the cabin 70-75F when it is 35-40 outside. Using highly compressed sawdust logs without wax is our approach. You can get them here in the Salish Sea from a local company. Incredible energy density. 

Where's Waldo?

East side

Played some cribbage, remembering how. Reading books. Sleep from 9-8. Boat time. 

Aeolus is in fine shape. Clean prop and bottom. Just changed the oil. Filled up with Renewable diesel I go down to PDX to acquire in 5 gallon buckets. She's in good shape and getting ready for a return to Desolation Sound this summer. Can't wait! 

Lovely MLK adventures-Unbelievable Orca/Sea Lion experience

 Went out with the boys this weekend and first visited Stuart, going to the Prevost side to make for a quicker trip to Sucia the next day. All was easy and normal and stunning and breathtaking on the way there. Once there, we went out to the lighthouse. Before even reaching the lighthouse, Elliott exclaimed "Orcas!!!". We ran down, and what we witnessed next was the most incredible display I've ever seen in the Salish Sea in all my years. 

For over an hour, a pod of Biggs Orcas were keeping two and then six big male sea lions hemmed in close to shore. The Orcas were busily spyhopping, tail slapping, calling out in both a squeek and a groan, rolling over one another, and generally doing everything their bodies are capable of doing, while tracking the sea lions and not letting them escape. This went on forever, as we sat right above them watching the whole drama play out beneath us. 

There are no words...and this is but the smallest, poorest little video of the experience: 

The next day we went to Sucia and explored the lovely sandstone coastline and caves. Lovely in winter. A nightmare in summer. 

On Monday the forecast had changed from SE 10 knots to SE 20-30. Leaving Sucia going back anywhere exposes you to SE winds. We had a good SE 20-25 on Monday morning, but the fetch was limited enough that we saw no more than 2-3 foot waves. Then we got into the lee of Orcas and had a smooth trip back to FH. 

A lovely adventurous weekend, filled with all the good food, games and fun of playing in wild places. We will never forget the drama of the Orcas and sea lions on this trip. 

Going and coming delightful, in between a bit rough

As any who frequent my blog know, we are frequent visitors to Jones Island and have been for over 15 years now. It's a go to spot anytime outside of summer, and is rather perfectly positioned and laid out to avoid the prevailing winds in either the south or north facing coves. For obvious reasons, the south cove is rarely used for more than a night in winter since our storms are predominately southern winds. However, the biggest winds and by far the most fetch lies to the N. Be ware any mariner who anchors in the north cove without a good eye to the forecast in winter. 

Is it just me? 

On this long weekend we went to Jones and had a delightful time as always. We had both our boys and Elliott's buddy James, who is like family too. Our journey there aboard Aeolus on Friday was smooth and calm, no rain, despite it having poured rain the entire drive up from Olympia. Classic island rain shadow. Forecasts were for winds building Saturday night to 25-35 SW to W.  So we went to the North Cove. On Friday afternoon we were greeted by a dramatic skyline and direct sunshine, rewarding our efforts to get to the islands. 

Just go

On Saturday it dawned cloudy and remained that way, with winds building through the day. Not a peep on the boat until 9:30am, a remarkable thing for students and employees who are normally up and at it far earlier. We had grand adventures on Jones, going cross country to new unseen places and discovering hidden spots off the trails. One of the many joys of Jones is that the entire island is State Park, allowing free wandering. And not too big so you really can't get lost or go wrong far, since any direction will take you to the trail that circles the island. 

Forecast called for strongest winds after midnight on Saturday night. Sure enough. We were asleep and dead to the world when I was awakened at 1:30 am by strong gusts hitting the boat. From where we were in the North Cove, we were fully protected from all SW and even W winds, with nothing more than eddies and wrap around gusts possible, no fetch. But what I woke to was a determined N to NW wind. Trouble! I got up and checked the latest wind speeds at nearby locations and forecasts. As is often the case when low pressure systems approach the Salish Sea, the winds in the Straights of Georgia will be N or NW, and in Puget Sound, S or SE. Hope you know why as I don't have time and energy to explain it here. But it's true. 

Warming a father's heart

So in this situation, we were getting the southernmost push of the Straights of Georgia NW winds for a while. Seas were building, and if it had continued, I was about to raise anchor and depart as that northern cove on Jones is a notorious lee shore in those winds. Nasty, nasty place to be when the Fraser River outflow is happening. 

Fortunately, and mysteriously, those strong NW winds just stopped. As the front moved through, the wind shifted back to W and then dissipated altogether. We didn't have to move, and got back to sleep. 

Our Mantus anchor never disappoints. Our still new Cubic Mini wood stove is such a delight. The cabin is 75 degrees and dry! We've been burning compressed sawdust logs that work well. Not the type with wax, duraflame, but the kind without wax you can buy at hardware stores made locally here in Western WA. 

Look closely and you'll see Elliott

Amy had us eating like kings with Thanksgiving leftovers (OH MY GOSH that stuffing and turkey!) and we played cards and read books all night long. Elliott swam back to Aeolus on Saturday, a full 90 meters by my estimation, in 42 degree air and water. That man has mental strength. Even after that long journey, he went further and just swarm around the boat and explored. So impressed by him.

Our trip back to Friday Harbor Sunday morning was glass calm and sunny. Just gorgeous. Going and coming were calm and sunny. In between, a storm.  

Aeolus, our space ship. We love you. 

 

Thank you Veteran's-A grateful escape

Freedom, liberty, democracy, justice, all remain rare in the world, and though we have fought too many wars without good cause, and engaged in no end of foreign interference to the great suffering of many, we remain a nation of better potential and hope than most, and I'm grateful for the role veteran's past and present played in making the United States a possibility. Now, let's get to the work of perfecting our union so that this version of a nation of the people, by the people, and for the people, does not perish from the Earth. 

With this in mind, we traveled the Salish Sea this weekend and had a perfectly normal incredible time. The skies were grey on Friday, but clear after that. Warm sun greeted us Saturday morning on Jones. There are no words to express our deep love for these trips. We feel so far away, so refreshed, so connected to each other and what is important. No distractions. A wild feeling. 

A Jones Island view

Jones. Stuart. 

We saw Orca's in San Juan Channel from Jones. We had all the usual seals and sea lions and surf scoters and kingfishers and terns and...lichens and moss and ferns...and cedars and firs and maples and yews. Aeolus is our space ship, and she is so stout.